.. is it possible that different gaskets require different re-torquing
methods? If the instructions attached to a gasket state that one
should literally re-torque immediately, maybe this gasket is of a
different type than those which want to be re-torqued after 500 miles.
(after-market products such as head gaskets might be produced to
different standards/procedures)
.. in addition, different cars (head/block combinations) might require
different methods
.. the Haynes Spitfire manual says:
- after replacement torque to the specified setting
- after 500 miles re-torque
- when you re-torque loosen each nut a little (a quarter of a turn),
before re-torquing
Romano
'77 Spit
Oxford
U.K.
>
>At 09:44 AM 9/8/97 -0700, Justin Wagner wrote:
>>In regards to the TR 4A type motor...
>>
>>
>>
>>I've heard different ideas over the years... but... when you re-torque
>>the head...
>>
>>should you loosen each nut a little, before re-torquing? or what?
>>
>>As much as I've been involved with Triumphs... Since I always did my own
>>work... (since 1977) ... this is just one of those questions that I
>>never really got a good answer on and somehow, has slipped through the
>>cracks...
>>
>>>From experience, I do know, that simply hitting each nut with the the
>>torque wrench doesn't necessarily do anything... as the nut can get a
>>little frozen in place... hence... it could be many pounds below your
>>torque wrench setting, and, yet, it will simply click on first
>>attempt...
>>
>>So I'm interested to hear a consensus of opinion on this issue.
>>
>>
>
>
>Justin,
>I will share what I "know" from talking, reading, and working on/about engines.
>
>The best single source of info that I have ever found was the "official"
>volvo manual.
>It dealt with an engine that had aluminum block(wet lined) and heads. I
>figure if
>the procedures they describe will prevent damage to an aluminum head, they
>could in
>no way damage a cast iron head(IMHO).
>
>Anyway, to re-torque I always un-torque in reverse torquing order. I then
>re-torque
>in the proper sequence to a ft-lb torque FAR less than the final torque. In
>other words,
>it will take me 4-5 "torques" to reach the final ft-lb torque.
>
>I also clean, smooth, and oil the washers, nuts, and head surfaces so as to
>minimize
>any friction losses.
>
>My ways may be dead wrong, but I have never had a head/head gasket problem
>on any
>engine I've built.
>
>Tim
>Kingston, Tennessee
>'62 TR4 CT16063L
>
>email: ttucker@conc.tdsnet.com (Home)
> tuu@ornl.gov (office)
>
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