DUHART JOHN wrote:
>
> Hey Mark,
>
> OK, $1600 sounds like a better price. Glad to hear you found a new
> mechanic.
>
> A bad u-joint in the rear might make a single knock during
>acceleration.
> When the guy has your car up on the lift ask him if you can take a look
> just so you know what a bad u-joint looks like.
He said that'll cost between $225 and $250 to do, both sides. However,
he said there is also another "major" problem that lurks in rear axles
when the u-joints are bad, but he won't know this until he gets started
on the u-joints. If that other thing is wrong, it will require a new
axle.
My question: how serious is a bad u-joint on both sides? I haven't
noticed any symptoms. Can I let it wait, or should I do it right away?
Any safety issues? Any way letting it wait could cause damage to
something else?
> A bad wheel bearing could be some bad new. You will need to replace
>the
> entire rear hub. These things can be rebuilt but require a 30-ton press,
> special tool, knowledge, experience, and a bit of luck. A rebuilt hub
> from TRF will cost $250. I have no idea what to listen/look for to
> determine if a hub has gone bad. I have both of mine off of my car
> currently and they spin freely and no grinding noise so I'm assuming that
> that means they are OK.
He mentioned only the wheel bearing, nothing about the hub. Parts and
labor cost is $132.
>
> Hey did this new mechanic agree that you didn't need a new steering
> column? I'll bet he is just replacing the steering column mounting
> rubbers. If he is then he is not trying to rip you off.
Yeah, he is just doing the rack mounts and tie rod ends. He's not
replacing the rack, and thinks the front end bushings can stay. He's
also doing upper ball joints.
Sirmoog
'71 TR6
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