Re: was timing, now Engine Compartment Hot Air Exit

[Barrie Robinson <barrier@bconnex.net>]

Many moons ago I sent a message out to the MGB V8 list asking for info on 
their cooling configurations and their results (Runs too hot most of the 
time, runs hot some of the time, runs hot in traffic jams, bloody perfect) 
but I only got 13 replies.  One thing did stand out and that is the 
majority of almost perfect cooling was from people who used standard MGB V8 
rads and the standard MGB V8 dual pusher fans - strange but true.  I only 
wished more of our 179 members on the list had responded.


At 09:49 AM 8/21/2003 -0400, James J. wrote:
> James Nazarian wrote:
>
> > I read in a summit racing tech tip that when placing a cowl induction scoop
> > you should align the opening roughly 1-2"s from the windscreen in order to
> > take full effect of the high pressure area in front of it.
> I think James N. is absolutely right, 1 to 2" is about as far away as the 
> opening can get.  Part of the equation is that it not only has to be a 
> "high-pressure" area relative to the atmosphere, but it has to be "higher" 
> than the area you want it to flow into.  When a cowl induction system is 
> ported into a carb, which is at engine vacuum, you'll definitely get 
> flow.  Some parts of the engine bay could be at a higher-than-atmospheric 
> pressure due to a ram-air effect (probably near the front), some could be 
> at atmospheric, if the air isn't moving at all (probably towards the 
> firewall) , and others could be lower-than-atmospheric if there is some 
> air-flow in the region (around the block).
>
> I'm eagerly awaiting a fiberglass MGC hood (should be here tonight!!!!!), 
> but I've heard that it still won't clear a rover EFI plenum.  I have found 
> a small hood-scoop on the web that is intended to have it's opening face 
> forward to allow air in, but it has roughly the same shape and low-profile 
> as the overall MGC bulge if it is turned around (opening backwards).  I 
> hope that this will not distract from the lines of the B (um, C?), will 
> allow clearance for the EFI plenum (or carb untill I get the EFI thing 
> worked out) and will aid in hot-air extraction w/o making me look like a 
> refugee who has been hiding out in the J.C. Whitney warehouse for too long 
> (Ooooo, Look... Fuzzy dice and neon tubes for my rocker panels!!!).  I'll 
> post a link for the scoop when I'm on my other PC.
>
> There is a fellow on the web who makes a fender-vent for the MGB, that 
> goes on the area of the fender between the wheel well and the door (like a 
> Corvette).  It has 3 vents and looks kind of like gills on a shark.
> These could easily be used to suck air out of the bay (engine, not 
> Chesapeke) .  The only problem is that the guy doesn't seem to want to 
> sell them very much.  It's a father & son operation, and the son makes 
> them.  The father has called me back, as well as a friend of the family 
> who has used them, but the son apparently hasn't decided on a price.  My 
> glass fenders from speedline haven't arrived yet, so I'm not in a huge 
> rush yet.  They also told me that they could possibly make a 2-vent 
> version if it would fit better behind the sebring flares.  We'll see.
> I'll post the link when I'm on my other PC.  Maybe if a few people are 
> interested he'll get in gear and come up with a price.
>
> There have been some really informative posts lately!!  I wish I could 
> find the smoking gun, though, that allows some MGB V8's below the 
> Mason-Dixon line work fine, while some up in Canada are overheating, even 
> though many of the same precautions have been taken.  I think the RV8 
> style exhaust makes the largest difference, from what I've heard, followed 
> by a shrouded aluminum radiator.  My 2-cents from reading posts, having 
> neither installed yet.
> James J.
Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrier@bconnex.net 
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