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Re: Its getting cold: Heater operation

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>, "Scott Tilton" <sdtilton@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Its getting cold: Heater operation
From: "levilevi" <levilevi@attbi.com>
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 22:01:28 -0700
References: <20021114212541.11647.qmail@web13310.mail.yahoo.com>
Not a defense but maybe an explanation.  I wrote this for the RMTC
Newsletter a while back.

>>>>>>>>

Some Hot Air  (Tips)
By Bud Rolofson

Not getting the heat you want in your TR4, TR4A, TR250, or TR6?  Are you
getting cold air through those dash air vents (the eyeball vents)?  These
Triumphs have a heater core that's about the same size of some American
station wagons so the potential for heat is there.  The trick is getting
maximum airflow through that heater core and where you need it.

Here's a few tips to help keep you a little warmer when you're out driving
the Triumph during one of our cool winter days or cool summer days for that
matter.

Don't expect to get hot air through the air vents (eyeball vents) in the
dash or the air vents that are under the dash because they are connected to
the heater box "above" the heater core and it's not possible to heat the air
before it comes flowing into your face or on your shins.  This is especially
true for you TR4 and TR4A people since your square dash vents don't even
hook up to the heater box.  These air vents were designed only for fresh air
and not heated air.  If you're trying to heat the interior or get heat to
the defroster/demister vents twist all four of those air vent center knobs
closed.  Make sure all four are in working order otherwise you're going to
always get nice fresh (freezing) outside air into the interior and less air
through the heater core.

Heated air can (or should) only come out two places, the defroster/demister
vents or out the bottom of the heater box.  This is true for all of the
models mentioned above.  Your air distribution knob on your dash lets you
choose which one gets the heated air and if you have a delicate touch you
can get a little going to both.

If you look at a picture of the heater box in a catalog or in a manual
you'll get a better idea of what happens when you pull the air distribution
knob and what that does to the flap controlling air flow through the heater
box.  The heater core in the heater box is mounted at an angle between where
the black air hoses connect on both sides of the heater box  (highest hoses
are for the dash air vents and lowest hoses for the defroster/demister
vents).  With the air distribution knob pushed all the way in the flap stops
airflow through the heater core (by sealing the heater box right below the
heater core) and that's what you want in summer when you want unheated air
coming through those dash air vents.  With it pulled to the 1st  "detent"
position the flap moves to a position just below the lower black air hoses
so air flows to the defroster/demister vents after it's been heated up
through the heater core.  If the air distribution knob is pulled out to the
2nd position the flap opens up the bottom of the heater box and heated air
flows out over the transmission tunnel and heats up your right leg until it
can't take it any more.

Mini Tips:

Those with pre-72 cars should open the scuttle vent cover in the winter.  It
increases airflow and thus heat into your interior.  Those with post-72 cars
don't have a cover on the scuttle vent only a black plastic grille so it's
open all the time....but I could be wrong about that too.

Try to get leaves and other debris off the heater core either by somehow
vacuuming them up with a small flexible hose duct taped (Red Green would be
proud*) to your shop vac and gently pushed down through the scuttle vent.
Or by blowing some compressed air up through the bottom of the heater box
(back flush it) with the flap open and the scuttle vent open (or grille
off).  Two or three leaves on there can be blocking 25-30% of your heat
flow.ask me how I know this.

*The Red Green Show can be found on PBS.  He's the Champion of auto repairs
using duct tape.





Bud Rolofson
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Tilton" <sdtilton@yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2002 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: Its getting cold: Heater operation


> --- Raymond Hatfield <iron_horse819@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > --- Scott Tilton <sdtilton@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > Its getting cold out there these mornings.
>
> snip  snip  snip
>
> > TR4A) you have the 'fresh air vents' in the front of the dash which also
> > connect to the plenum.  The side effect is you CAN recirculate the air
inside
> > the cabin with the scoop closed.
> >
> > Make sense?
> > =====
> > Raymond L. Hatfield
>
>
>
> Yeah it makes sense . . .  I mean .. I understand it.
>
> What I don't get is why they changed it for the TR6?
>
> I mean, sure those eyeball vents are pretty nifty.
> Aim them where ever you want and the close up nice and tight.
> Perhaps one weakness is they don't let as much air through as the big
square
> TR4 vents.
>
> But, the eyeball vents in a TR6 aimed at your face and lap can still only
> provide cold / fresh air.   right?  Yes It can be fan forced air incase
you are
> sitting at a stoplight and need a wimpy breeze blowing at you I suppose.
>
> The TR4 couldn't fan force air at your face.
> big deal.
>
>
> Would somebody please step up and defend the TR6 heater / ventilation
system?
>
> :-)
>
> Scott Tilton
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________

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