Eric
Many times it's difficult to get the heater cable set just right to operate
the heater valve on these cars - in your case you might error on the hot side
(adjust valve to be a little more open rather than fulling closed when
bolting that wire in place). Make sure the lever on the valve is working when
you push-pull the cable knob (maybe outer cable is slipping and not the valve
lever!)
Your stat might be on the cool side for winter- might be time for a warmer
one.
The bypass setup is to warm your motor quickly and evenly (more usefull in
cold weather) so NOT having the sleaved stat would actually make your heater
work FASTER - the 'sleave' blocks the 're-circulation action' only at
operating temp in favor of forcing coolant to radiator - critical for hot
days).
If your new valve is not working you could feel the rubber hoses under the
dash to see if heat's reaching them
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
------------
I am having the opposite problem. I finished my 4a restoration at the
start of the summer and am just needing the heater now, but I can't get any
heat out of it. I have a 160 degree thermostat, the temp gauge comes up to
normal pretty fast and stays there, but the heater fan just blows cold air.
I installed a new heater valve during the restoration, and assume it is
working correctly. The heater core was flushed and is not blocked it any
way. I don't have a sleeved thermostat. Could it be that not enough hot
coolant is flowing through the bypass hose because of this? Maybe the
heater valve it defective? Any thoughts?
- -Eric Miller
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