> I am having the opposite problem. I finished my 4a restoration at the
> start of the summer and am just needing the heater now, but I
> can't get any
> heat out of it. I have a 160 degree thermostat, the temp gauge
> comes up to
> normal pretty fast and stays there, but the heater fan just blows
> cold air.
> I installed a new heater valve during the restoration, and assume it is
> working correctly. The heater core was flushed and is not blocked it any
> way. I don't have a sleeved thermostat. Could it be that not enough hot
> coolant is flowing through the bypass hose because of this? Maybe the
> heater valve it defective? Any thoughts?
The lack of a sleeved thermostat should not be a problem (in fact my factory
SPC shows the 4A did not have a sleeved tstat originally). The 160
thermostat will reduce the heat available, but you should still get
noticeably hot air.
Check the heater hoses under the hood, to see if they get hot. With the
engine warm and running, they should be too hot to keep your hand on. If
not, something is impeding water flow through the heater core. If both
hoses are hot, then air is not flowing through the core. I've seen several
cars with the core completely blocked by leaves, this may be worth checking.
And of course be sure you're checking for heat where the heat comes out, not
at the dash vents.
One way to check and troubleshoot the water flow is to remove the hose from
the heater valve, and setup a garden hose to run water into the radiator
fill so that it overflows gently. You should see water flowing out from
both the (opened) heater valve and the removed hose. If it doesn't come out
of the hose, remove the other hose from the tube on the LH side of the
engine, and see if water comes out of the tube. If not, likely the tube is
blocked. If you now get water, the core is blocked.
As we all know, common antifreeze is toxic. If you're running antifreeze,
please collect and dispose of it properly before doing the above tests.
Randall
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