I agree. All that I read said the wrap is ineffective for street engines and
causes the header to break much quicker as the header gets toooo hot.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Faggart" <mikefaggart@hotmail.com>
To: <jamesbhorn@outerbounds.net>; <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>;
<bholland@hayes.ds.adp.com>
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2001 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: In General Comments
> James, from what I understand, wrapping the header helps with heat but it
> shortens the life of the header. You may want to consider this if it is a
> street car and just run the heat sheilds.
> Mike Faggart
> SEROC
>
>
> >From: "James B. Horn" <jamesbhorn@outerbounds.net>
> >Reply-To: "James B. Horn" <jamesbhorn@outerbounds.net>
> >To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>, <bholland@hayes.ds.adp.com>
> >Subject: Re: In General Comments
> >Date: Thu, 3 May 2001 22:25:54 -0700
> >
> >When I got the great deal for the carb's ($150 Pair new) I assumed that
> >this
> >was a common occurrence. then I went looking for a manifold -- no luck,
so
> >I
> >asked this remarkable machinist that I had the pleasure of knowing to
make
> >me adaptor plates. He machined out of 1" aluminum plate these two
identical
> >works of art. The bores exactly match the carb bore and the manifold
bore,
> >so each hole is eccentric and conical. I went with K&N filters and have
> >room
> >to the fender well. I also wrapped the exhaust manifold with fiberglass
> >tape
> >to try to cool it down. So now I am at the difficult stage.
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Brian Hollands" <bholland@hayes.ds.adp.com>
> >To: "James B. Horn" <jamesbhorn@outerbounds.net>
> >Cc: "Datsun Roadster Mailing list" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2001 6:43 AM
> >Subject: RE: In General Comments
> >
> >
> > > I went looking for Weber info (as an alternative to the high cost of
> >solex
> > > carbs) and found very little. There is no Weber manifold for the U20
so
> >you
> > > have to have a solex manifold. The linkage works backwards, push
> >instead
> >of
> > > pull. Neither of these are major problems. The general consensus
from
> > > those that I spoke to is that the Weber's can never quite get dialed
in
> > > right. I think this is likely a problem related to taking time to set
> >them
> > > up properly as they seem to run well on Z cars. The problem is that
for
> > > most application you can call the Weber tech line and they will give
you
> >a
> > > set up that gets you in the ballpark. With the roadster they have no
> >such
> > > info to share. The flat spots and such that the Weber's experience in
> >all
> > > likelihood comes from not having the right emulsion tube (Jet block in
> >solex
> > > speak). Weber lists 16 different emulsion tubes at least a dozen of
> >which
> > > are possibilities for the roadster. With so many choices it seems
> >certain
> > > that you could find the right set up but it might take a very long
time
> >to
> > > come up with it. It's also possible, though I would think unlikely,
> >that
> > > there isn't a good emulsion tube for the roadster. There just doesn't
> >seem
> > > to be much info out there.
> > > BTW the 45 DCOE would be the equivalent of the 44PHH solex
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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